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Even before our trip to Asia, we knew that we would like to immerse ourselves in monastic life in Thailand. Experiencing the everyday life of the monks, but also the introduction to meditation really appealed to us. It felt like we had turned the whole internet upside down to find a suitable monastery. It was purely by chance that we came across Wat Pa Tam Wua Forest Monastery in the north of Thailand, which fortunately was also on our approximate route. The monastery, which was built around 20 years ago, welcomes visitors all year round without prior registration. Everyone is welcome! However, you must comply with the rules, such as a ban on alcohol and smoking, as well as not touching the opposite sex. In return, visitors are offered free board and lodging and can make a voluntary and welcome donation at the end of their stay.
Journey to Wat Pa Tam Wua
The easiest way is via the popular hippie village of Pai, where we also spent a few nights. Yellow shared cabs run every day at 7am and 11:30am, which will take you directly to the monastery for 120 baht (~ €3.20). It is not possible to buy a ticket in advance, so be early at the intersection opposite the Baanpai restaurant. The journey takes around two hours on winding roads, but at some points you have a fantastic view of the impressive landscape.
Arrival and check-in
As already mentioned, the yellow shared cab will take you directly to reception. Before you continue, however, you will need to take a rapid coronavirus test, which you must bring with you. The monastery cannot admit you without a test! This is followed by the usual procedure, i.e. providing your personal details and how long you would like to stay at Wat Pa Tam Wua. The rules that must be followed during your stay are also explained here. You will then be provided with bedding and white clothes and can have a short rest in your accommodation.
Accommodation
The extensive grounds, which are laid out with fish ponds and large lawns and surrounded by dense jungle, have two types of accommodation. If you're lucky, you might get your own bungalow with a bathroom, otherwise there are gender-segregated dormitories. But don't expect luxury. You can either sleep on a wooden bed, without a mattress of course, or on the floor. However, the accommodation is very clean and equipped with proper fly screens and fans.
Schedule
After the introduction, everyday life in the monastery begins with all its facets. Attendance at all points is compulsory, as this is not a recreation center. It is also good manners to arrive punctually, i.e. always 10 minutes before the actual time. It is definitely impolite to rush into the hall when the monks are already seated or when you arrive at the same time as them.
05:00 a.m. Morning meditation
The day begins with an independent meditation in your bungalow or room. If you are in a dormitory, you can also sit on the chairs by the fish pond. This is not compulsory, but should definitely be done for a good start to the day. After your meditation, you can then help out in the Dharma Hall. Whether it's mopping, sweeping or preparing the food bowls for the subsequent offering to the monks, every helping hand is welcome.
06:30 Offering to the monks
Everyone grabs a bowl filled with rice and positions themselves in the hall. Make sure that men and women are separated. A spoonful of rice is then offered to each monk as an offering. Neither the monks' offering bowl should be touched nor should rice be spread on the floor. The ceremony generates good karma and can also be observed outside the monastery walls on the streets.
07:00 Breakfast
It's finally time for the first meal of the day, breakfast. With your plate from the offering, you head to the dining table. Thai breakfast consisting of rice and vegetables is served daily. Add some fruit or vegetables and you have a filling meal. The food at the monastery is always vegetarian. And there is no one to clear away your plate, because you have to wash up all your used utensils after use.
08:00 a.m. Joint morning meditation
The joint morning meditation, which consists of various parts, begins at 8 a.m. on the dot. It starts with walking meditation. In this, the whole group walks through the monastery garden for around an hour. This is followed by 45 minutes of seated meditation. If you are unable to sit on the ground for this long, there are also places with chairs available. Again, please make sure that the rows are separated by gender. Last but not least, the monks answer any questions visitors may have.
10:30 a.m. Offering to the monks and lunch
Similar to the morning offering, food is again offered to the monks. However, here only men carry the monks' offering bowls to the dining table and wait until they are filled. After a short thanksgiving and a prayer, the remaining participants are also allowed to come to the table and fill their stomachs, as lunch is the last meal of the day. In this respect, the 227 daily rules of the monks are followed, which state that no more food may be eaten after 12 noon.
12:50 p.m. Afternoon meditation
This practice starts again with a one-hour walking meditation, but this time through the jungle and uphill. This somewhat strenuous session is followed by a 30-minute sitting meditation and, in contrast to the morning routine, a lying meditation of around 30 minutes. It is not uncommon for some participants to fall asleep during this.
16:00 Cleaning the grounds
In this one hour, every visitor to the monastery should do their bit, after all, the huge grounds don't look after themselves. There are various tasks to do, such as raking leaves, preparing cushions for meditation or cleaning your own bungalow.
17:00 Leisure time
Yes, there is that too at the monastery and all options are open to the participants. For example, you can take a short trip to the caves on the grounds or simply relax in your room or by the fish pond. But of course the rules apply here too, for example it is forbidden to lie on the grass.
18:00 Evening meditation
The last point of the long day is coming up. The evening chanting lasts around 45 minutes and comprises a series of different verses and thanksgivings. After another three quarters of an hour of seated meditation, the day is officially over.
20:00 End of the day
Over a cozy cup of coffee or cocoa, you can review your day or exchange ideas with other participants. The monks also recommend that you do a final meditation alone in your accommodation. However, all the lights are switched off by 10 p.m. at the latest and the process starts all over again the next morning.
CONCLUSION
After seven nights, we found it quite difficult to leave this peaceful and beautiful area. In our eyes, the mix of meditation, everyday life and nature is the perfect balance to the strenuous days of traveling. The meditations also worked better from day to day and we will try to integrate them regularly into our everyday lives in future. But we were also both surprised, unfortunately in a negative way. We hadn't expected so many tourists to come here. Don't get us wrong, anyone can visit this place, but you should have the right intentions and the necessary respect. The monastery is not a resort or luxury accommodation. The people who come here want to receive an introduction to Vipassana meditation. So first ask yourself whether this strenuous daily routine and type of meditation is for you! However, if you are ready to immerse yourself in the everyday life of a Buddhist monastery, you are interested in meditation and you want to learn something about yourself, then we can only recommend the stay!
